Over 1400m and 43 pitches in an intense 5 days of climbing. Just finished a great week climbing with Robin and Paula from the Castle gym in London in a fantastic progression of   Verdon classics.

Threatening storm clouds, light rain and strong south winds meant caution and speed were of the essence on our first day so "El Gringo Loco"(6a) and "Les Dalles Grises"(5c) allowed for a good warm up. Unfazed by the exposure Robin and Paula moved quickly and efficiently in our rope of 3, and with the wind turning west later in the afternoon it looked good for the rest of the week.

Cranking up the atmosphere and difficulty on day 2 I got out the static line for the approach to "La Derobee"(6a+). The 200m  freehanging ride down the "Castapiagne Rouge" is perhaps the most spectacular approach in the Gorge and nearly always allows us to be first on the route. The difficulty proved to be just right, with them both having to "dig in" a little on the final steep 6a+ pitch. We finished off the day with more dramatic exposure and an ascent of the most famous 5c pitch in the Verdon – "Wide is Love". At the grade this is really a must on a first visit to the Gorge. I managed to capture some of the emotion on video below.

Day 3 was planned to tap a little more into the energy reserves before a rest day and preparation for the 12 pitches of "la Demande". "Pas de Prelude pour Herve"(6a+) is only a couple of years old but is fast becoming a modern classic. 5 pitches below the 'Dent d'Aire and combined with the 3 pitches of "Dolce Vita"(6a+) to finish it makes for 8 pitches of sustained climbing at around 6a – 6a+ on superb rock. It was the perfect end to the 3rd day. 

A rest was now certainly welcome before the main event.

"La Demande". Probably the most historic climb in France, outside of the Alps. I've climbed it many times since 1979 and although it now has more fixed gear than back then, it still has an alpine like atmosphere and feels like an adventure on a very big cliff. It would be the first time I'd climbed it as a party of 3 but I had no doubts that Robin and Paula would be up to the job. They'd been efficient and focused so far, and today wouldn't be any different. They pulled out all the stops and we completed the route in around 8 1/2 hours including stopping for lunch, photo opportunities, and taking the time to appreciate the grandeur of the surroundings. We were also fortunate to be alone on the route which added to that 'mountain atmosphere'.

As memorable a day for me as it was for them on their first visit to the Verdon.

Unsurprisingly, after such a magnificent effort on La Demande, fatigue had started to set in, so for the following and final day of the trip we opted for "L'Arete du Belvedere", 8 pitches, and a lovely moderate warm down to an unforgettable 5 days climbing.

 

Until next time, well done guys, and thank you!