USA 2013

Posted on 2013-03-23 - filed under news

Joshua Tree trashed hands at the top of 'Equinox' 5.12c

Hi everyone,

Back from a great winter road trip in USA.

The surreal high desert of Joshua Tree was as amazing as my last visit but as the photo shows the sharp monzonite granite is vicious on the finger skin when arriving from the smooth 'grey' of the Verdon, and after 10 days continuous climbing we bailed for the gentler smoother grained sandstone of southern Nevada.
 
It had been 10 years since my last visit to Red Rocks but this time I was here with my wife Kate. Recently preoccupied finishing a Phd she hadn't climbed much of late and was looking to find quality multi-pitch trad and well bolted sport in the 5.7 to 5.10 grade range.

I had forgotten how much pure fun Red Rocks climbing was at this grade - I'd say Red Rocks has some of the best moderate long routes in the world, enough to make us smile inwardly and outwardly for almost 3 weeks!

Vegetation on climbs is non existent, the highly featured walls and cracks display seas of perfect edges, flakes and protection placements and when these run out there is usually a bolt.
Even the cracks can be climbed using face holds - perfect for Kate as she hates jamming! Many routes also have bolted anchors allowing for safe and rapid descent if pushed for time or if storms threaten - high adventure without 'too much' committement!

The neon city of Las Vegas is also not far away and actually really convenient for supplies and as we discovered amazing hotel deals that competed with camping.
Thankfully though its not too visible from the climbing except at night when the casinos light up and the city becomes the most brightly lit object on earth as seen from space!

In my next post I've put together a video of one of the highlights of the last month - a 9 pitch world classic 5.8+ called 'Crimson Chrysalis'. The climb follows highly sculpted crack systems up a 300m+ high pillar, and we were privileged to be the only party climbing that day. It is a must irrespective of what level one climbs at, and certainly one of the best routes at this
grade anywhere in the world.