Guided Adventure in the Verdon Gorge

Chateauvert Coaching week

Posted on 2013-03-27 - filed under testimonials

"Hi Alan,

I just wanted to thank you for an amazing few days. It was great to see you again and learn from you. The first time we met you taught us what we needed to do to stay safe and enjoy climbing on our trip round Europe.

This time you gave us plenty to think about and work on in terms of technique. We noticed a difference when we went back to the wall in Marseille and can't wait to get outside on the rock (once the snow goes!) we've found a few sports venues nearby (including a bridge at new mills) and are hoping to come back to the Verdon in October.

Thanks too for your hospitality - if you are ever back here we'd love to cook for you."

Jaimella and Dave Espley (Buxton UK)


Thanks guys. Such a pleasure to see your passion and progress over the last couple of years - Bravo!


'Crimson Chrysalis' 5.8+

Posted on 2013-03-24 - filed under news

USA 2013

Posted on 2013-03-23 - filed under news

Photo: Joshua Tree trashed hands at the top of 'Equinox' 5.12c
Joshua Tree trashed hands at the top of 'Equinox' 5.12c

Hi everyone,

Back from a great winter road trip in USA.

The surreal high desert of Joshua Tree was as amazing as my last visit but as the photo shows the sharp monzonite granite is vicious on the finger skin when arriving from the smooth 'grey' of the Verdon, and after 10 days continuous climbing we bailed for the gentler smoother grained sandstone of southern Nevada.
It had been 10 years since my last visit to Red Rocks but this time I was here with my wife Kate. Recently preoccupied finishing a Phd she hadn't climbed much of late and was looking to find quality multi-pitch trad and well bolted sport in the 5.7 to 5.10 grade range.

I had forgotten how much pure fun Red Rocks climbing was at this grade - I'd say Red Rocks has some of the best moderate long routes in the world, enough to make us smile inwardly and outwardly for almost 3 weeks!

Vegetation on climbs is non existent, the highly featured walls and cracks display seas of perfect edges, flakes and protection placements and when these run out there is usually a bolt.
Even the cracks can be climbed using face holds - perfect for Kate as she hates jamming! Many routes also have bolted anchors allowing for safe and rapid descent if pushed for time or if storms threaten - high adventure without 'too much' committement!

The neon city of Las Vegas is also not far away and actually really convenient for supplies and as we discovered amazing hotel deals that competed with camping.
Thankfully though its not too visible from the climbing except at night when the casinos light up and the city becomes the most brightly lit object on earth as seen from space!

In my next post I've put together a video of one of the highlights of the last month - a 9 pitch world classic 5.8+ called 'Crimson Chrysalis'. The climb follows highly sculpted crack systems up a 300m+ high pillar, and we were privileged to be the only party climbing that day. It is a must irrespective of what level one climbs at, and certainly one of the best routes at this
grade anywhere in the world.

USA Road Trip 2013

Posted on 2013-03-12 - filed under news

Photo: Joshua Tree panorama with Headstone Rock
Joshua Tree panorama with Headstone Rock

Just back and head buzzing from an amazing 4 weeks in USA. Climbing in Joshua Tree and Red Rocks Nevada.

Trip report to follow soon.